Here we go, round two.
This is a relatively simple mod, IMO. Im not very mechanically inclined, and I got er done.
First you unscrew the two screws for the throttle cable housing. I wrecked and scratched mine up and had to get an impact driver to get the screws out. Stock I would imagine that wouldn't be necessary.
Then slide the rubber "condom" down off of the aluminum thottle housing and down the throttle cables to assist in removing the housing.
You will need to dremmel out the "walls" on the inside of the housing thats closest to your brake lever.
If you dont dremmel it out then you will have problems with your throttle binding.
Next is the throttle cable adjustment. In my case I had to adjust both adjustments...the one above the radiator...
and the one near the throttle bodies.
To get the maximum adjustment from each, I cut off the lock rings on each. I just used some dikes and was careful.
Now, getting to that second adjustment is somewhat tricky due to the need to remove the tank and airbox. However, Ill tell you the trick.
to remove the tank, you need to remove the two bolts at the top, and then your seat to get to the other bolt. with those three bolts removed, quick disconnect the fuel line to the pump, the vent hose, and the electric connection on the subframe on your shift lever side.
Now, If youre standing on the thottle side of the bike, looking at the airbox, remove the 5 allen bolts you see. Then separate the rubber ram air tubes from the box to allow free movement. The ram air gets in the way sort of. ow pull the airbox up SLIGHTLY, then twist it 90 degrees counter clockwise to allow the bulge in the airbox to move toward the battery.
Took a bit of elbow grease, but no big deal. Installation is just the opposite. Just takes a bit of finagglin!
with that removed, you can now freely acces the throttle cable adjustment.
BTW, if you want new velocity stacks, nows the time to do it!
Then all you have left to do is slip the 1/5th insert over the throttle and re-connect the cables. I had the latest so theres a grove that the cables slide in.
Even with cutting the lock nuts off of my cables, I still had to play with the placement of the throttle on my clip-on...On my bike I have adjusted the brake lever from stock and also moved the clip-on outward for more leverage.
But with mine, I slid the throttle up till it butted up against the kill switch mount, and then my srewdriver had JUST enough room to screw in the lower screw.
But I still have the same snap as stock did. NO BINDING, with stock cables.
I prolly missed something, but thats most of it and it gives you a good idea of what you'll be up against!
Cant wait to see what its like on the track now!
Dont forget to hook your stuff back to the bottom of your tank before you get it all bolted back together...